Sport climbing in Paklenica
I define sport climbing as low-risk, well-protected rock
climbing, usually one pitch and usually involving minimal gear placement. The sport has
exploded in popularity over the last few years, especially in the gorge called Klanac in
Paklenica. While the rock is generally clean, and many people do not wear helmets at these
sites, be aware that the ledges and steep, wooded slopes immediately above the cliffs are
covered with loose rock, and natural or man-made rock fall occasionally occurs. Beware
A word about top-roping:
While top-roping is an excellent way for climbers to push
their limits, there are a few things to think about. In the Klanac, most sport routes end
on clean rock, so leading one of these climbs is simply a matter of climbing to the
anchors and lowering off. Some climbers in some routes creates a potential for creating
rock fall on below climbers. If you attempt a route that is above your abilities, chances are you'll end up flailing away on it. Some popular rock routes in the Paklenica are already very polished. We're all aware that good rock is a finite resource. If you want to top-rope, try to do it on routes where you won't' pedal.'
Equipment: A 50 m rope and 8 or 15 quick draws will suffice almost everywhere, and there is an increasing tendency to eliminate the need for double rope rappels. More traditional areas (like Anica kuk, Kukovi ispod Vlake, etc.) many routes will require protection to be placed. In gorge called Klanac the protection is almost exclusively bolts.
The majority of the sports climbs
are situated on both sides of the gorge called Klanci, which starts at the park and
continues towards Anica luka. The routes are climbed on small independent rock formations
and on steep or overhanging rocks at the base of the peaks of Kuk of Skradelin, Cuk and
Debeli kuk. The rock is excellent gray limestone with sharp small handholds. As the routes
face W or E they are exposed to the sun at some point during the day and it is possible to
climb in the gorge all year round. The wind that blows through the gorge can be very
unpleasant, especially during the winter. The routes are listed by sectors and are
described in the order that they appear as you walk from the car park up the gorge towards
Anica luka. From the first sector to the last (A-Z) it is a 15-20 min. walk.
In Paklenica are 75 sport climbing routes.
It is recommended that you buy climbing guide "Paklenica".
By Dubravko Vukmirovic
Scanned by Tamara Dumic.
Special thanks to Boris Cujic.
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