ANICA KUK (712 m)

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The magnificent wall of Anica kuk dominates the gorge and offers a wide variety of delightful routes, be it classical, sports climbing or aid routes. Anica kuk has three clearly defined wall:

A) NORTH FACE

Characterized by narrow cracks and chimneys caused by water, that give the overhanging slabs a furrowed appearance.

B) NW FACE

Divided  into three sectors:

a) Klin - the part of the face below the summit, bounded by two corners

b) Trapez - the central part of the face with a prominent overhanging slabs that is black and yellow in color.

c)Stup - At the extreme right of the face there is a huge buttress, the lower part which is more obvious that the upper part. The latter, is bounded on the left by huge yellow slab with an obvious diagonal corner. The routes on Stup are listed from left to right around the buttress.

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C) WEST FACE

This face extends from the Stup, where it is short and steep.It gains height but looses some of its steepness in the central section. Then, as you move further right, the face becomes steeper again. At the right-hand side it joins the face of Cuk on the notch Privija, situated above the scree Nuglo.

A) NORTH FACE

Approach: Follow the track through Klanci towards Anica luka to the last but one turn, at which you cross the steam on the right.Follow a faint path until it meets the track that winds its way to the foot of the NW face. Here, bare left to the start of the routes approx. time from the car park 30-45 min.

Descent: From the end of the face descent a steep broken slope to the NW (marked path!) to reach the bushy flatland.Then follow a path to the left until you reach the saddle between Anica kuk and Jurasova glavica. Continue towards the cave Lukaceva pec. Shortly after the cave, turn left at the start of the platform below the main buttress, back towards Anica luka and traverse the scree under the N and NW face to join the path of ascent. From the top to the valley 1 hr.

B) NW FACE

Approach: as for the N face.From the car park to the base of the NW face (20-30min)

Descent: From the top of the face go to the top of Anica kuk and then descent NE ( marked) to the saddle between Anica kuk and Jurasova glavica. From here descent as described from the N face. From the routes in the right part of the wall (in area of Brahm), you can descent the SW ridge by a marked path partly protected by steel cables, to the saddle between Anica kuk and Cuk. Then continue down the face to the right (steel cables) to the scree. Continue down to the middle of the scree and then turn right towards the Stup. From here you join the approach path. From the top to the valley 40-60 min.

B) c) STUP   

An outstanding and typical wall of Anica kuk, which includes part of the NW and W faces.The wall (divided in the lower and upper part) is bound by the corner of Forma viva on the left and by Bivakova jaruga on the right.

Approach: as for the N and NW faces of Anica kuk, but shortly after crossing the steam, strike up and right towards Stup. From the car park 20-30 min.

Descent: From the routes that finish on the shoulder (at the end of the lower part) abseil down the W side of Stup (the route n.81 - has anchors with cement rings). From the routes that finish on the top, the descent is the same as that from the W face of Anica kuk.

 

It is recommended that you buy climbing guide "Paklenica".

By Dubravko Vukmirovic
Scanned by Tamara Dumic.
Special thanks to Boris Cujic.

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