Vranjska draga (Vela draga)

Vranjska draga, Svijeca, Rompituto 6c+

It is a valley situated on the north-west slopes of Ucka. Through the centuries water has created remarkable shapes here. They are actually narrow towers scattered over one side of the valley - once you reach them you can have a wonderful view of the peak of Ucka and the Istrian fields on the other side. All this gives a special charm to climbing in this outstanding area.

Optimal season

Autumn, spring. It is pleasant in winter unless there is no wind. Very hot in summer.

Geographical setting

On the slopes of Ucka, in the vicinity of the Istrian side of the Ucka tunnel.

Accommodation

It is possible to camp at the end of the valley or to bivouac under the big tower. Water supplies are necessary. You can also stay in a mountain hut on the Pollen (the old road across Ucka).

Rock, Routes

Grey lime-stone, characteristic for its numerous tiny shell. The routes are in almost vertical positions. The starting meters of some routes are poor rock quality. All presented routes are protected by bolts, the names are written.

Tunnel:

  1. ? 7a+
  2. Chameleon 6c
  3. Zoo 6b
  4. Nonicev 6c
  5. Fant 6a+
  6. Sunken Luke 6a
  7. Petrin 6a+

Thru hall: 

  1. Moje zlo 6a
  2. Grga 6b
  3. Cvrcak (direkt) 7a
  4. And oknom 6a

Svijeca (see picture):

  1. Brid 4b
  2. Rompituto 6c+

Furija:

  1. Furija 6a

Big rock:

 

  1. Torpedo 6b West 
  2. Huncut 6c    West 
  3. Pukotina 5b NI
  4. Desni rub 6b NI

Gorgona:

  1. Zimbabve 6b+
  2. Fingerplay 6c+
  3. Black coffie 5c+
  4. Bijelo pranje 4b+
  5. Cracker 5b
  6. Monica direct 6a+
  7. Motika 5a
  8. Fu-fu 6a
  9. Sporkica 7b
  10. Gorgina 6b
  11. T.D. 6c/c+
  12. Ruzica 5c
  13. Zuta ruza 5c
  14. Brsljanov zljeb 5b
  15. Ljubica 6a+
  16. I am from Austria 5c

3 rocks, 3 routes on the right rock, 1 in the middle and on the right rock:

  1. Brsljanov rub 4a
  2. Onaniko 5c
  3. Stojan 4a
  4. Flipper 6a
  5. Picnica 4b

Castello (west):

  1. Simon 6c+
  2. Cvrcicek 6c

Castello (north):

  1. Napoleon 7b+

 Right from Castello

  1. Plastic sausage 6a+
  2. Ammoniac 6c
  3. Dynamite 6c+
  4. Krokodil 6a/a+

Under tower on the top left, left from cave:

  1. Fantasia 7a+

Big tower

From three

  1. Commici brid 6a LEFT
  2. Crna macka 7a/b MIDDLE
  3. Tutti  - frutti 6a+ RIGHT

From down, from left to right

  1. Odiseja 6a+
  2. Feniks 6c

North rock, big rock:

  1. Prljava sudbina 6c (5c, 6c) 80 m
  2. Nirvana 6c (6c, 6b) 90 m
  3. Yugu - yugu 6c+ 30 m
  4. Socijalni problem 6c+ (5b, 6c+, 6a+) 100 m
  5. Papagalo 6b (6b, 3) Upper the tunnel 50 m

By Dubravko Vukmirovic


Thanks to Hrvoje Supic for helping me with this pages.